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20v into AE92


20v into AE92


The complete guide.

Required Tools

Kinchrome Socket Set:

  • 10mm, 12mm,14mm,17mm,19mm,30mm sockets
  • Long and Short Extensions
  • Breaker Bar
  • Ratchet
  • Swivel joint

Large Adjustable wrench

Long nose pliers

Open Ended Spanners

  • 10mm
  • 12mm
  • 14mm

Standard wind-up floor jack

4 Cheap Car Stands

Block and tackle attached to roof of garage


Rubber Mallet

Circlip pliers

Soldering iron, solder, flux, heatshrink and electrical tape


  • Phillips
  • BIG Flatblade (crowbar alternative!!)

Electric Drill

Angle Grinder (exhaust removal!!)

How to Install:

The 20V front-cut was delivered on Monday, and upon arrival home from work that afternoon Mark and I began stripping the cut of all the items that didn’t need to be in the bay to get the motor out, Radiator, air-box, intake pipe, AC condenser and lines, manifold, strut brace, and anything else that basically wasn’t too hard to get to. Along with the cleaning up of all the shattered glass everywhere from the windscreen, that seemed like enough work for the first night.

Tuesday night was spent removing the dash and dash loom, more glass everywhere.

Wednesday night was spent sorting out looms that were to be passed back through the firewall, I ended up chopping off the car’s body loom plug that passes through so I could untangle the body loom wires from the rest of the 2 engine looms. In hindsight I probably should have left that plug intact for a little while longer because I was going back to it and doing a bit of searching later on to try and figure out what a couple of wires were forů

Thursday night was spent deciding how to get the engine out and doing a bit more sorting of the body loom ( a lot of the body loom sorting time seems like a waste now because of the approach I took once the engine was in its new home)

Friday was spent organising the block and tackle configuration from one of the cross-members on the garage roof, the setup was hooked up to the motor and some photo’s taken of the vacuum hoses, fuel return lines, etc etc.

Saturday, I had a sleep in until 12:30 which I didn’t mean to doů (I was planning on getting up REALLY early to knock the whole lot over in a dayů) Then the afternoon was spent disconnecting the selector cables, vacuum lines, heater hoses, fuel lines, ancillaries in the engine bay, power steering and clutch lines (VERY MESSY if you’re not carefulů ) accelerator cable, and anything else that was connected from the engine to somewhere else. The Axel nuts on the drive shafts were an extreme pain to get off and we eventually removed them by putting wheels on the hubs, lowering the front cut to the ground, putting the car in gear, and getting someone to stand on the brake while I used a breaker bar and a car jack to push on the extension until the nut started to move!!! The nuts were removed and then the car was put on stands again and we removed the three bolts at the bottom of the assembly below the hub to disconnect the strut/hub from the suspension arm, and then the hub pulled straight off the drive shaft. The 3 bolts were replaced in each side after the shafts were pulled from the hubs (so we could put wheels on and wheel the half cut away later) and the drive shafts were left hanging only connected at the gearbox! .The fuse boxes were unbolted and heaped on top of the motor and held in place with some string (the looms were also pulled through the firewall and tied to the top of the motor) Then we TRIED to pull the motor out by removing the bolts from all the engine mounts and lifting it out, but the rear engine mount didn’t want to budge, we removed the bolts for the rear mount from the cross-member as well, but the engine still would not come outů so after 45 minutes of screwing around trying to winch it out I gave up and went out for a cruise down the coast with some of the 4agze.com guysů.

Sunday morning after a bit of rest I took a different approach to the rear mountů we winched the motor up a bit, removed the bolts from the front of the cross-member, and removed the front mount from the cross-memberů Then we swang the motor forward toward where the radiator would be and I reached down the back of the motor and pulled the rear mount out with 2 fingers!!! Once that mount was out of the way we lifted the whole lot out of the bay and up to the roof, drive shafts and all!!! Then the front cut was wheeled to the side of the house with some spare wheels on itů The engine was lowered onto a trolley with a 300Kg load rating, and it was wheeled to the back of the garageů with the trolley wheels looking like they were going to give out at any stage!!! The cam covers and a few other bits and pieces were then removed and detailed and the drive shaft boots were removed and the CV’s split at the rose joint from the gearboxů Lots of really runny brown grease came out and it was awful stuff, nothing like the Black Lithium grease that is meant to be inside these jointsů

NOTE: The “Equal Length” drive shafts on a 20V are not actually exactly the same lengthů the driver’s side (RHD) shaft is about 2cm longer than the passenger side shaft. Also, when removing drive shafts from the rose-joint coupling, make sure to place match-marks on the shafts to make sure you put them back together EXACTLY the same way as they came apartů This also remains true for when you remove the joint off the end of the shaft to replace the CV boot, make sure you match-mark it with a punch or something to make sure it goes back together with the splines in the same place compared to the rose jointů

We considered pulling the engine from the SX that night, but it felt like it had been a long weekend and we decided that we would detail the 20V while it was out of the Bay after work during the weeků

Monday night I spent sat on a chair at the motor un-looming the wiring, keeping the loom-tube and turfing the tapeů From the body loom plug that I cut off I had about 25 cut wires that I had to figure out where they wentů After unlooming everything it looked like a real mess I felt like I had a HUGE job ahead of meů It wasn’t too bad though, I sorted all the wires back to their attached plugs and it looked like it was starting to make sense, that plug basically contained a bunch of Air-con wires, a few of the sensor wires (water temp, speed sensor and a couple of others), starter on signal, oil warning wire and a few ABS related thingsů nothing too scary!

With the help of Phil Bradshaws 20V wiring guide I started to sort through most of the wiring to figure out what I could lose from the loomsů there are a bunch of Green wires on the large engine plug for the ecu that are AirCon related, and I’ve left about 4 of these disconnected and things still seem to be working fineů

The next few nights during the week I spent studying the wiring diagrams and cleaning/detailing the engine, Friday rolled around and after work we started stripping the SXů We took off the front bumper, lights, radiator exhaust, and just about everything we could to clear the engine bay a bit.. by Friday night the engine was almost ready for removalů

Saturday morning was another late start and this time round things went a bit better than the removal of the 20V from the front-cut. Once again the Drive shaft nuts were a pain to get off, but using the Brakes, Breaker Bar, and a jack we removed the nuts, the 3 bolts were taken out of the suspension arm to get the shaft out of the hub and then replaced once the shaft was removed so we could put the wheels on and move the car out of the wayů Then the CV boots at the gearbox were removed and the shafts removed from the CV jointů lots of normal thick black lithium grease in these onesů The clutch and heater lines were removed along with the fuel rail and anything else that would unbolt easilyů The engine loom was disconnected from the motor and heaped on top of the passenger side strut tower without cutting any wires, the looms were pulled through the firewall and also heaped with the rest of the loom. The original fuse boxes were unbolted and also pulled out of the way as much as they could be. The block and tackle was hooked up again and we prepared to lift the engine out, this time we removed the front mount almost straight away and that helped a lot with the bastard rear mount, after another 10 minutes the Blue-Top was swinging freely in the air above the car, at which point we rolled the car out of the way and dropped the old motor to the floor on a large piece of cardboard. The old motor was then dragged to the side and the car rolled out on the driveway for a thorough degreasingů (10 years of Crap in the engine bay takes a while to clean offů) While the old motor is on the floor SWAP THE OIL PRESSURE SENDER!!! (that is if you have an oil pressure gauge instead of a light.. eg SX, Gti) And be careful not to damage the casing of it like I didů they are expensive.. to remove the sender I took off the Power steering pump, AC compressor and the associated brackets, this makes life a LOT easierů then you need a 14mm spanner that basically has a right -angle about 2cm after its opening so you can get it in behind the sensor onto the nut part of the threadů Toyota has a special service tool for this, but we just put a bend in one of my 14mm open end spanners ů also it is a hell of a lot easier if you install the sender into the 20V while it is out of the engine bay, we did it the hard way like some others while the motor was in the bayů

On Sunday the 20V was lifted to the roof and the car rolled beneath it, the motor was lowered in place and all the bolts for the mounts put in place apart from that bloody rear mount which didn’t want to line upů. So I sat on the floor with both feet against the block hanging on to the front of the car pushing the engine back towards the firewall while mark laid under the car trying to get the bolt in place, after about 5 minutes of struggling the bolt went in and everything was cool. Please note that bracket for gearbox engine mount was left off so engine could be angled into the bay and pushed up under the passenger side fender so the AC compressor pulley would clear the drivers side strut tower while the engine was lowered in.

The engine mounts used for the 20V sitting in the AE92 bay were as follows:

  • Mount at Timing belt cover – Original AE92 Mount
  • Mount near extractors – AE101 or AE92
  • Mount at rear of engine – AE92 (AE101 has 3 bolts, AE92 has 2 into cross member)
  • Gearbox mount – Either AE92 or AE101, they look identical but have different part #’s

Once the engine was in I hooked up the clutch lines, power steering lines, and brake booster vacuum lines

  • I used the flexible line of the SX from the firewall to the metal clutch line of the 20V, the 20V bracket on the gearbox needed a bit of modification to accept the SX line, but it works perfectly
  • The metal line for the power-steering pump was a real pain to make fit between the timing belt cover and the engine mount, but after a bit of struggling it went in place and a bolt was used to secure it the same as the ae92’s original setup. The rubber power-steering hose from the other part of the pump back to the metal pipe that bolts to the chassis was used from the 20V because it is longer and it allows you to have the factory washer bottle in place, the ae92 flexible hose was too short to get to the pump when the metal bracket holding the hose assembly to the chassis was in place with its bolt.
  • For the brake booster vacuum lines I used the Metal pipe from the 20v that runs along the firewall from the timing cover side to the gearbox side, and then modified a couple of pieces of the old hose to reach from the brake booster to the newly installed metal pipe (see pics for details)

The selector cables bolted straight up and I used the SX’s original charcoal canister and the fuel return lines fitted perfectly. The fuel line from the engine bolted straight up to the ae92 SX fuel filter so that was no hassle, and the radiator from a 4afc was installed with the top outlet in the centre similar to the ae101 item (I still think I could have possibly made the AE101 radiator fitů) The heater hoses were hooked up and then the engine was flushed with de-mineralised water for the first time to try and wash out any conflicting coolants from the SX heater system, 20V water passages, and the 4afc radiator. I did this because of some horror stories I have heard from people that have mixed coolants of different brands and screwed their motorsů The Drive shafts were left out at this stage because we decided to change the boots and that is a messy job that no-one wanted to do, so they sat in the corner of the garage for nearly 2 weeks!! 😉

Once all the components were in place I had a look for where I could mount the bracket from the 20V that has the igniters, coil pack, starter relay etc on itů with a bit of bending it fits perfectly beneath the AC lines on the strut tower and behind the charcoal canister, in a very similar spot to the ae101’s placement. I also fitted the AE101 air-box using one screw from inside the base of the air box to the fender where there was already a threaded nut on the other side of the guard to hold it in placeů I had to ditch the original cover that the ae92 has over the gearbox mount because the air box wouldn’t fit with it in place. A piece of induction pipe from Autobarn (A bloody expensive piece of induction pipeů $30 a meter!!!!) was run from the air box, through a hole in the bay where the factory pipe went, and then down below the front bumper on the passenger side where it gets a clean feed. (Hopefully Mark wont be driving through any flooded roads anytime soon!!!)

At this stage everything was starting to look really goodů apart from the MASSIVE mess of wires hanging out of the side of the engine bayů It was a bit daunting seeing all the looms etc everywhere and I briefly wondered if I was in over my headů so on Tuesday night I started the large task of Wiringů On Wednesday I was starting holidays from work so I would have a lot more time during the day to get the car on the roadů I was aiming to have it running by Friday morning, but some sleep-ins and long lunches put a stop to that ideaů (I had it running Saturday lunch time!)

All Wednesday was spent figuring out the starting/charging system which I can say is what I found the most difficult to figure out, but looking back on it now it was pretty simpleů I had a couple of heavy gauge wires coming from the housing that were split into about 4 and went to a few different things in the bay and then back through the firewallů I was almost about to splice the 20V’s fat white wires in the same fashion as the ae92’s setup but I did a final check with the multimeter and found that I didn’t have to splice anything!!! The plug from the 20V starter motor had a cable connected to it that runs inside the cabin of the ae101, I ran this cable from the round plug on the starter motor cable, through the firewall, and the plugs on the other end of it plugged into the ae92’s plugs under the centre console where the ae92 wires wentů These are 2 plugs under there, one plug with 4 pins containing:

  • Black with Yellow Stripe
  • Black with White Stripe
  • Black with Orange Stripe
  • And one other I can’t remember right now but you get the pictureů

The other plug is a 2 pin plug with the thick White wires, I think this is the starter power or power for the heater fan, anyway, it plugs straight inů

There is another fairly thick white wire that came from the fusible link on the 20V and went to the alternator/starter, this wire swapped straight over to the ae92 fuse box without too much trouble. I basically followed the markings on the fuse boxes and spliced the wires that were needed from the 20V fuse box across to the ae92’s box, such as AC1, AC2, ALT, etc etc, Then the rest of the wires that went from the 20v’s fuse boxes for EFI main relay etc I worked out from Phil Bradshaw’s guide, with only a Blue with Yellow stripe wire almost stumping me because it wasn’t mentioned anywhere, but I had a look at the 20V box where it was connected and it got a switched 12V from a relay so I spliced it into the EFI main relay and everything is working fineů

I then started splicing the cut wires from the 20V body loom over to the ae92’s body loom, some of these wires included the Wires that run to the AC compressor, the oil pressure sender and a few others that are pretty obvious when you have the two looms in front of youů That took me a while because I soldered and heat-shrinked every wire properly, there was also a couple of wires in the body loom that needed to be spliced into the 20V engine looms (about 4 I think, Starter power-Black with White strip, Engine ground-Brown with black dots, EFI main relay wire-Black with red stripe and something elseů) Like I’ve said before, with Phil Bradshaw’s wiring guide and the ae101 wiring diagram it wasn’t too difficult once I got started. The dash loom plug was the last to wire up and I can honestly say that this was one of the most straightforward parts of the swap, I had the 20V pin out and the 16V pin out and there was 3 wires different I think, it was very easyů

For the fuel control line from the AFM(Green wire with red stripe), I spliced this wire into the Green/red stripe wire that was connected to FC on the 16V ecu, this wire then continues onto the Circuit Opening Relay and its purpose is to keep the fuel pump running while there is air flowing through the AFM, so if you stall it or crash, the engine stops and no air flows through the AFM so the fuel pump shuts offů

For the Diagnostics Connector from the 20V, I connected up the wires I wanted connected (half of these wires ran to the 20V body loom plug that I cut off) and left the rest not connected this is up to you for how far you take it but the main ones I connected were Fp, B+, and Cc0. Fp and B+ came from the ae92’s body loom and used to connect to the 16V’s diags block, Cc0 connects to the dash loom plug on the ecuů

Now I thought I had everything connected properly in the wiring department so I plugged everything together to give it a tryů the mistake I made was not fixing the bracket that holds the ignitor and other stuff to the strut tower so it had a good ground, I left it lying on top of the strut tower because I just wanted to see if the engine would runů The engine cranked and fuel pump was running, but it wouldn’t fire!!! I was REALLY pissed off at this stage because I couldn’t see where I had gone wrong and I didn’t like the idea of not having the car on the road by Mondayů after a couple of hours of thinking and some emailing to some knowledgeable people and a couple of “HELP” posts on 4agze.com ůů I had a brainwaveů I ran a wire to the chassis ground and twisted it around the ignitor body and the car fired first go!!!

Mark ran downstairs when he heard the car running and we were all very relieved!

Then I started to loom-tube and tape everything up nice and neat. While I was at it, I had a look at the ae101 shifter in a quest to reduce the massive throw of the ae92’s shifterů after disassembling the ae101 mechanism and chopping off the not needed plastic-bits the shift lever itself if very similar, only the shaft below the ball joint is about 5mm longer, and the shaft above is about 2cm shorterů The shift lever bolted directly in place of the ae92 lever, and it is MUCH sorter and feels 1000 times better!

We used the 20V headers with the twin flex-joints under the sump all the way back to the factory cat, and had a flange welded onto the ae92 exhaust so it bolts straight up.., and I did not connect the Cat temperature sensor, it works fine without it.

For the Throttle cable we used the 20V item, it comes out with 2 bolts from the firewall, we also found that when using the metal bracket that is on the 20V cable that has the rubber stopper for the pedal, the ae92’s accelerator pedal has a different bend in it and it misses the 20v stopper, so we also swapped over the 20V accelerator pedal assembly, it all bolted straight upů.


The costs involved in the conversion.

Date: 02/12/2001
Description Supplier Price
AE101 Front Cut Slipstream Performance $1600.00
4afc Radiator (top outlet in centre) Second-hand from Steve20V $50.00
Top Radiator Hose Repco $10.53
Toyota Oil Filter 90915-YZZC4 Toyota $20.35
Toyota Oil Filter 90915-YZZC4 Repco $39.71
Inner CV Boots PN# 100-051 Repco $48.55
Castrol GTX3 Oil 5 litres Autobarn $25.00
Castrol Power Steering Fluid 500ml Autobarn $6.99
Valvoline Brake/Clutch Fluid Autobarn $7.99
Valvoline Coolant 5L Autobarn $12.99
Demineralised Water 10L Supercheap $5.98
Split Pins Autobarn $5.98
Heat shrink 2m Jaycar $3.30
Electrical Tape 3 rolls Autobarn $8.97
TOTAL for essential items – $1846.34
Oil Pressure Sender -8352035030 Toyota $105.80
Octane Boost Autobarn $29.99
Leather Gear Shift Boot Supercheap $29.99
Lowered King Springs – KTFL45 & KTRL86 Friend $200.00
Wiper Assembly X2 Autobarn $33.89
“Sports Pedals” Autobarn $29.99
Air Ducting 1m Autobarn $29.99
High Temp Spray Paint – 3 cans Autobarn $40.93
Export Degreaser – 10 Cans Autobarn $23.39
“Bag of Rags” Supercheap $3.50
Oil Pan Supercheap $7.99
Exhaust Second hand $250.00
TOTAL for non-essential items – $1785.46
Fittment of exhaust and springs One Stop Muffler Shop $200.00
  • The Oil Pressure sender from the original motor was damaged during removal so we had to fork out for a new one.
  • The original Radiator could have been used but it would require a very long hose to be routed over the top of the exhaust manifold to reach its connector, so a 4afc item was obtained with the outlet in the correct spot.
  • The CV boots didn’t really need replacing but it was decided that it would be easier to put new boots in during the conversion
  • The Demineralised Water was used to flush the cooling system completely so everything will be fine and not suffer from corrosion caused by different coolants
  • The Air Ducting was used for a Cold Air induction system to the AE101 airbox from beneath the front bumper
  • The old motor had new alternator and AC belts so they were swapped over, and the timing belt had already been changed


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